Okay, got some sleep. Here's the story: My alarm went off at 7:00 a.m. like a hammer to my head – basically like every other morning but one on this trip. You would think three to four hours sleep should be enough each night! A second alarm goes off that I assume is Josh’s, my roommate. I get in the shower with the porthole, get dressed, and am ready to go. The whole time this other alarm has been going off. Josh has never moved the entire time. I finally realize it’s the television – it’s the wake up call from the front desk. I wake Josh, head downstairs, eat breakfast with Eric, then meet our drivers for our 8:00 a.m. ride to Copenhagen.
All is running fine for an on-time departure, but no sign of Boone and Brian. I look all over. I call their room, but no answer. After looking outside, I go back in to have the gentleman at the front desk tell me they called. They just woke up and will be right down. Our hosts are a little stressed, but we’ll be fine. They hustle down as promised. We’re on the road to Copenhagen. Two and a half hours later, we cross the bridge from Sweden to Denmark and are at the airport. It’s a busy one - lots of folks. We get DecembeRadio checked in without too much of a problem and say goodbye. It’s been a great week with these guys. I’m very thankful for experiencing all of this with them. I buy a train ticket and head to the Copenhagen Central Station. The hotel where I’m staying is near the station. I make the short walk to the hotel, drop off the bags, and start sightseeing (Central Train station below).
It’s a beautiful day. The one other time I was in Copenhagen was in December, so it’s quite a bit different. I stop by the tourist office first. I know the Copenhagen Jazz Festival is happening while I’m here. I had read that Wayne Shorter was headlining tonight at the Copenhagen Opera House. I’m hoping the tourist office might help me find a ticket. No luck. It’s sold out. Oh well. I walk across the square in front of City Hall, then head down the Strøget, several blocks of shops and attractions leading toward my ultimate destination, the Amalienborg Slot (or castle) (City Hall pictured below).
Along the way, I come across some soul-refreshing street music played by talented street musicians. There were twin brothers sitting on a bench each playing the violin, performing classical standards. Then, I came across these three guys below, the Trio St. Petersburg. So good, and different. I had to buy a CD.
A short video sample of their performing.
The Amalienborg Slot is the residence of the royal family of Denmark. It’s actually a complex of four castles that face each other, each on a corner of a plaza. The Crown Prince lives in one with his family, one is used for state occasions, and one is under renovation. A part of the Queen’s residence is the one open for guided tours.
After the tour, back to the Strøget to find some food. I haven’t eaten since breakfast. It’s nearly 4:30 p.m., and I’m feeling very weak from no food and little rest. Before finding any food, I come to Nyhavn on my walk back, the stretch of colorful buildings along the harbor. I get distracted again. I had to get some pictures of this place, plus listen to some of the jazz playing in the city at an outdoor stage.
saw a little of the Latin Quarter, then was finally on the other end of the street still needing to secure some food. Finally, a hot dog stand (though not your typical dog). It was the only fast food I could find. I want to keep moving!
I arrive at the hotel about 5:30 p.m., exhausted. I check in and head to my room. I open the door to a furnace blast. It so hot. There is no air conditioning. It’s not usually needed. Regardless, I have to rest and do for an hour or so. Around 7:00 p.m., I decide to take a chance on the Wayne Shorter concert. I know John Pattitucci is playing bass. He’s great. It would be cool to see him, and see him in Copenhagen no less. I figure the worst I will be out is bus fare, plus I’ll see some of the city I haven’t seen yet. I find the right bus at Central Station, board, and the driver tells me I’m getting a free ride. The machine that takes the money is broken. Nice! We arrive at the Copenhagen Opera House. It is no exaggeration to say it is spectacular. A very modern design, it opened in 2005. It sits facing the canal directly across from the Amalienborg Slot plaza where I was this afternoon.
I walk to the front and pass through the crowd, seeing if there is an available ticket. It’s cool to see everyone visibly excited about the show. I just want to be one of them! Unfortunately, there is not a single ticket to be had from anyone. At 8:00 p.m., the show begins. About fifteen people like me, needing a ticket, wait inside near the hall doors in hopes that there will be some no-shows and they will release some seats. After a few minutes, a person working there tells all of us there will definitely be nothing available. All but one other person leaves. I go outside to wait a little longer, just in case. If nothing else, I’ll enjoy this beautiful view and nice evening.
After about five minutes, two ladies walk around from the side building wearing laminates with light blue lanyards. They see me and ask why I’m not in seeing the show. I tell them about looking for a ticket but coming up with nothing so far. They turn and look at each other. The one on my right reaches for her back pocket and pull out an envelope. In it is exactly one ticket that she takes out and hands to me. I’m shocked. I ask her how much I owe her. She says nothing, just make sure you tell people there are some nice folks in Copenhagen. Done! I can’t believe it, but I walk in the building and am led to my seat. The Copenhagen opera house is a good size place. There is an orchestra level with three balconies that wrap around the audience side of the hall. Where is my seat? Orchestra level, tenth row, in the center. Unbelievable.
It was quite a show - very experimental with fabulous musicianship. In four hours, they only played four pieces! Each was close to thirty minutes long. For part of the show, Wayne’s quartet was joined by the openers, the Imami Winds. That made it a jazz quartet joined by woodwind quintet - French horn, oboe, bassoon, clarinet, and flute (and piccolo on one song). Very, very different and interesting. It was strange in the beginning. I was so exhausted, I was having short episodes every now and then like I was dreaming, or like the person who sees a mirage in the desert. I may have been dreaming - I might have fallen asleep a few seconds at a time! I finally started to get a second wind after the first forty-five minutes or so.
It was so different. The piano player was really the person keeping time. Brian Blade, the drummer (he’s on the cover of Modern Drummer magazine this month), really provided more of the dynamics. I never heard him play a pattern of anything for more than four bars. John Pattitucci played in a similar way, but held the groove down. About 10:30 p.m., I headed back to the hotel. It was raining on the walk back to the hotel from the station, but it wasn’t so bad. It was one of those soft rains that are kind of refreshing. I of course didn’t have enough sense to go to bed. I wanted to edit my pictures, which I did while watching the movie “Man on the Moon.” A good film. Finally, to sleep with a plan in my head for tomorrow.
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