Pictures for this post coming soon!
3.30.09 - I wake up on the bus parked in Anaheim. We meet our hosts and walk to Disneyland. It is a perfect day. Our first ride is Thunder Mountain. There is no line yet and it’s a fun warm-up ride. Next stop is Space Mountain. Al, one of our local hosts tells me to wear my sunglasses. It makes the experience better. He’s right. It’s lots of fun. We then cross over to California Adventure. I’m excited to see this park since I’ve never been to it before. I like the classic California theming. I ride Soarin’, one of my favorite rides ever and see the Bug’s Life 3-D show. At noon, it’s time for me to run. Brian, one of our hosts, takes me to the airport for my flight home. This has been an incredible week, way beyond any of my expectations and full of surprises. I’m so thankful for the opportunity to be in these places and the experiences I’ve had this week.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Oceanside, California
Pictures for this post coming soon!
3.29.09 - It’s a rough night. The sound of the road is very loud with several rough patches. I go to bed at 12:30 a.m., but lie awake until nearly 4:00 a.m. I wake up again shortly after 6:00 a.m. My alarm goes off at 8:00 a.m. I get dressed to attend church at Calvary Chapel Oceanside. Getting off the bus, it is cool and cloudy outside. There is a café inside with cake-style doughnuts. I can’t pass them up. I have both chocolate frosted and maple frosted. I attend church, hearing guest speaker/author Lee Strobel. The worship band here has some very good players in it.
Our hosts provide a nice lunch for us with some tasty beef stew and some amazing brownies. I don’t get to see much of the town of Oceanside. I am dropped off at the hotel for some exercise and a shower. I take a short exercise walk before returning to the room for some more workout. I grab a tea and New York Times at Starbucks on the way back from my walk. I smile and think to myself as I look at the palm trees and feel the breeze, what a great job and life I have. I’m thankful.
I have made arrangements to meet my relative Lon and his family from nearby Encinitas while I’m here. I am picked up by his daughter Brooke to meet everyone at their house for dinner. Lon cooks up another great meal – Cornish hens with an orange and Karo syrup sauce, a mixture of baked rices, steamed vegetables and crescent rolls. A fresh tangerine makes a nice dessert.
Brooke takes me back to Calvary. It’s a great show. A nice finish to the evening is the post-show catering of In-N-Out Burger. I’m excited about tomorrow. Our hosts are treating us to a visit to Disneyland.
3.29.09 - It’s a rough night. The sound of the road is very loud with several rough patches. I go to bed at 12:30 a.m., but lie awake until nearly 4:00 a.m. I wake up again shortly after 6:00 a.m. My alarm goes off at 8:00 a.m. I get dressed to attend church at Calvary Chapel Oceanside. Getting off the bus, it is cool and cloudy outside. There is a café inside with cake-style doughnuts. I can’t pass them up. I have both chocolate frosted and maple frosted. I attend church, hearing guest speaker/author Lee Strobel. The worship band here has some very good players in it.
Our hosts provide a nice lunch for us with some tasty beef stew and some amazing brownies. I don’t get to see much of the town of Oceanside. I am dropped off at the hotel for some exercise and a shower. I take a short exercise walk before returning to the room for some more workout. I grab a tea and New York Times at Starbucks on the way back from my walk. I smile and think to myself as I look at the palm trees and feel the breeze, what a great job and life I have. I’m thankful.
I have made arrangements to meet my relative Lon and his family from nearby Encinitas while I’m here. I am picked up by his daughter Brooke to meet everyone at their house for dinner. Lon cooks up another great meal – Cornish hens with an orange and Karo syrup sauce, a mixture of baked rices, steamed vegetables and crescent rolls. A fresh tangerine makes a nice dessert.
Brooke takes me back to Calvary. It’s a great show. A nice finish to the evening is the post-show catering of In-N-Out Burger. I’m excited about tomorrow. Our hosts are treating us to a visit to Disneyland.
Drive: San Jose to San Luis Obispo, California
Pictures for this post coming soon!
3.28.09 - It was cold, rainy, and gray in Seattle when I left this morning on Alaskan Airlines. Landing in San Jose, it is warm and sunny with blue skies. My ultimate destination is San Luis Obispo, California. My plan is to make a scenic drive down the coast on Highway 1, about a four drive going that way, to join Big Daddy Weave’s What Life Would Be Like tour.
I get my luggage, walk to the rental car shuttle, and get on. Within a minute, I realize the coat I had tied around my waist is missing. I jump off, walk back, and look everywhere I’ve been for my jacket. I can’t find it and no one has seen it. The lady at the lost luggage office at Alaskan calls the gate. They say they have found it and will bring it down in ten minutes. After another call to the gate and forty minutes later, a lady from the airline walks up with a suitcase and says, “Here’s your bag.” The lady at the counter and I look at each other, then back at the lady with the bag. We said it was a lost coat, we remind her. She says, “Oh, no, we didn’t find a coat.” I’ve now not only lost the coat, but also almost an hour of travel time. Driving down the coast is now out of the question. As I go to pick up my suitcase and leave the airport, the suitcase handle pops off in my hand.
I head south on the 101 after a detour into the drive thru at In-N-Out Burger. As often happens, I’m really glad it worked out to go this way. I’ve been down the coast before, but have never been on this part of the 101. Leaving San Jose, the landscape on my left is round, pea green colored hills, with dots of dark green trees. Their shape reminds of the way hills are portrayed in Dr. Seuss books. Much of it is a very rural, agricultural area. I see cherry trees, fields of garlic, celery, asparagus and more. The last half of the trip is a little less green, slightly more desert-like. Right before entering San Luis Obispo, I pass through some beautiful mountains coming into the city.
Along this entire drive, I see bells on posts with signs that say “Historic El Camino Real.” I learn that Camino Real, which means The Royal Road or King’s Highway, can refer to any road under the jurisdiction of the Spanish Crown, but that these signs specifically refer to the 600 mile California Mission Trail stretching from San Diego to San Francisco. El Camino Real was one of the first state highways in California. Because of a lack of standardized road signs at the time, it was decided to post these bells as markers of the trail. The first one was posted in 1906.
I reach San Luis Obispo. I wish I had time to explore here, but it is nearly show time. The host here has a beautiful tray of local fruits for us. The small orange fruits are kumquats, the yellow ones are limequats, the dark-inside oranges are blood oranges, sharing a platter with huge strawberries and fresh grapes. Huge basil lettuce leaves about the size of a hand are available as well.
After the show, I turn in my rental car at the airport and get on the tour bus for the ride to Oceanside, California.
3.28.09 - It was cold, rainy, and gray in Seattle when I left this morning on Alaskan Airlines. Landing in San Jose, it is warm and sunny with blue skies. My ultimate destination is San Luis Obispo, California. My plan is to make a scenic drive down the coast on Highway 1, about a four drive going that way, to join Big Daddy Weave’s What Life Would Be Like tour.
I get my luggage, walk to the rental car shuttle, and get on. Within a minute, I realize the coat I had tied around my waist is missing. I jump off, walk back, and look everywhere I’ve been for my jacket. I can’t find it and no one has seen it. The lady at the lost luggage office at Alaskan calls the gate. They say they have found it and will bring it down in ten minutes. After another call to the gate and forty minutes later, a lady from the airline walks up with a suitcase and says, “Here’s your bag.” The lady at the counter and I look at each other, then back at the lady with the bag. We said it was a lost coat, we remind her. She says, “Oh, no, we didn’t find a coat.” I’ve now not only lost the coat, but also almost an hour of travel time. Driving down the coast is now out of the question. As I go to pick up my suitcase and leave the airport, the suitcase handle pops off in my hand.
I head south on the 101 after a detour into the drive thru at In-N-Out Burger. As often happens, I’m really glad it worked out to go this way. I’ve been down the coast before, but have never been on this part of the 101. Leaving San Jose, the landscape on my left is round, pea green colored hills, with dots of dark green trees. Their shape reminds of the way hills are portrayed in Dr. Seuss books. Much of it is a very rural, agricultural area. I see cherry trees, fields of garlic, celery, asparagus and more. The last half of the trip is a little less green, slightly more desert-like. Right before entering San Luis Obispo, I pass through some beautiful mountains coming into the city.
Along this entire drive, I see bells on posts with signs that say “Historic El Camino Real.” I learn that Camino Real, which means The Royal Road or King’s Highway, can refer to any road under the jurisdiction of the Spanish Crown, but that these signs specifically refer to the 600 mile California Mission Trail stretching from San Diego to San Francisco. El Camino Real was one of the first state highways in California. Because of a lack of standardized road signs at the time, it was decided to post these bells as markers of the trail. The first one was posted in 1906.
I reach San Luis Obispo. I wish I had time to explore here, but it is nearly show time. The host here has a beautiful tray of local fruits for us. The small orange fruits are kumquats, the yellow ones are limequats, the dark-inside oranges are blood oranges, sharing a platter with huge strawberries and fresh grapes. Huge basil lettuce leaves about the size of a hand are available as well.
After the show, I turn in my rental car at the airport and get on the tour bus for the ride to Oceanside, California.
Seattle, Washington
Pictures for this post coming soon!
3.27.09 (Part 2 of 2) - I reach Seattle around 5:00 p.m. My first stop is Discovery Park. I read that it is a beautiful place. I get to see a little bit of it, but it’s more of a trail park and it is getting dark. I then head for Pike Place. After a walk around, I come across the Seattle Art Museum. To my pleasant surprise, it is open until 9:00 p.m. tonight. It’s 8:00 p.m. now, so I still have time to at least make a quick tour. This is another great museum. Like Portland, it has a good mix of classic art, impressionist art, Northwest Native American art and a strong modern art collection. Both museums emphasize at least part of their collections with art that represents the region. Seattle Art Museum, known as SAM here, has some great 18th, 19th , and 20th century pieces by Albert Bierstadt (a favorite of mine), Andy Warhol, John Singer Sargent, Winslow Homer and other well known artists, but also contains much older pieces, like a 13th century work by Rubens to B.C. era Roman sculpture. There is an excellent special exhibition on loan from Yale University of Revolutionary War Era art. Most of the works are by John Trumbull, who served closely with George Washington.
My night ends with another form of art. I ask at the art museum for sushi restaurant recommendation. They send me to Japanese Gourmet Restaurant. Leon, the sushi chef, is without a doubt a food artist. After some great fish at the sushi bar with some nice people around me, it’s time to call it a day. I drive toward the airport, pick up one of Seattle’s more notable products (Starbucks), find a hotel, and pack my bags for the flight to San Jose tomorrow.
3.27.09 (Part 2 of 2) - I reach Seattle around 5:00 p.m. My first stop is Discovery Park. I read that it is a beautiful place. I get to see a little bit of it, but it’s more of a trail park and it is getting dark. I then head for Pike Place. After a walk around, I come across the Seattle Art Museum. To my pleasant surprise, it is open until 9:00 p.m. tonight. It’s 8:00 p.m. now, so I still have time to at least make a quick tour. This is another great museum. Like Portland, it has a good mix of classic art, impressionist art, Northwest Native American art and a strong modern art collection. Both museums emphasize at least part of their collections with art that represents the region. Seattle Art Museum, known as SAM here, has some great 18th, 19th , and 20th century pieces by Albert Bierstadt (a favorite of mine), Andy Warhol, John Singer Sargent, Winslow Homer and other well known artists, but also contains much older pieces, like a 13th century work by Rubens to B.C. era Roman sculpture. There is an excellent special exhibition on loan from Yale University of Revolutionary War Era art. Most of the works are by John Trumbull, who served closely with George Washington.
My night ends with another form of art. I ask at the art museum for sushi restaurant recommendation. They send me to Japanese Gourmet Restaurant. Leon, the sushi chef, is without a doubt a food artist. After some great fish at the sushi bar with some nice people around me, it’s time to call it a day. I drive toward the airport, pick up one of Seattle’s more notable products (Starbucks), find a hotel, and pack my bags for the flight to San Jose tomorrow.
Drive: Wenatchee, WA to Seattle, WA/Roslyn, Washington
3.27.09 - Teresa wakes me up with a phone call at 8:45 a.m. I’m fortunately not on any schedule today. My ultimate destination is Seattle, Washington, about three hours drive from here. I get some more work done, check out of the Coast Hotel and look for lunch and tea. A few blocks down in the historic district is Café Mela. It’s a nicely decorated, comfortable place with a large performance space that includes a grand piano. Like the Bipartisan Coffee House in Portland, it is a nice mix of people. Mom’s with kids meeting other mom’s and their kids, business people, students, and couples. The person behind the counter recommends the quiche. It’s very different from the one yesterday, stuffed with Italian sausage, zucchini and other vegetables. It tastes almost like great stuffed pizza.
On the way out of town, I pass rows and rows of apple trees in orchards at the foot of the mountains. A little further, the elevation rises. Soon, I’m in the middle of the Cascade mountains. It has snowed heavily here in the Wenatchee National Forest.
Coming out of the higher elevations of this range of mountains, I pass the exit for Roslyn, Washington. I keep driving, thinking that sounds very familiar. Then, an image from the television series Northern Exposure comes to my mind. It's the image of Roslyn’s on the side of the town café. I remember that Roslyn is the town portrayed as Cicely, Alaska where the show was shot. I love Northern Exposure! It’s one of my favorite series ever. I own every season on DVD.
I turn around at the next exit and go back to see Roslyn. I’m not about to be this close and not see it. After traveling a small road north of I-90 for about fifteen minutes, I turn left onto the main street of town. As I do, I get this bizarre, charged feeling of driving into an alternate reality. It’s like driving onto the show! It’s still exactly as it appears on the series: Roslyn’s Café, The Brick, Village Pizza, the town totem pole, Ruthanne’s store, KBHR radio station, home of Chris in the morning, Dr. Fleischman’s office. Even some of the people look the same. I’m sure some are, as local people acted as extras during the filming.
One of the opening shots of the show
Maggie O'Connel's house
I park and start my exploration in the building portrayed as Dr. Joel Fleischman’s office. It is a gift store. I have a nice visit with the owner. Originally from Croatia and still speaking with a thick accent, he tells me people from all over the world visit here because of the series. In all, I spend two hours in Roslyn. Every time I start to leave, I find another reason to keep hanging around. It’s funny, when the series was on, I remember seeing Village Pizza and thinking in another time of life that I want to own a Village Pizza somewhere I can ski in the off time. Here I am, seeing that same place in person. This visit to Roslyn is one of the highlights of this trip. The weather, by the way, is bitterly cold. There are very strong wind gusts that cut completely through me.
I resume my drive to Seattle. The weather is getting a little worse as I ascend higher into the mountains again. The scenery is stunning. Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is all around me, with Mt. Rainier to the south of me. I have to come back here soon.
Drive: Eugene, Oregon to Wenatchee, Washington
3.26.09 - I wake up at the Hilton in Eugene at 7:00 a.m., reach over to the table, grab my laptop and start working before I even get out of bed. I was hoping to be on the road by 9:00 a.m. Unfortunately, while trying to cover all of the work that needs to happen two time zones ahead of me, I leave at 11:00 a.m.
I’m hoping to get something good and not standard fare for breakfast on the way out of town. Google Maps points me toward the Beanery. It’s in Farmers’ Union Market, which appears to be an old farmer’s market or co-op. I have a green chile and cheddar quiche that is outstanding. The tea here is good as well.
The Beanery in Farmer's Union Market
It’s time to start the seven hour drive to Wenatchee, Washington. The area north of Eugene reminds me a bit of Ireland, with mountains to the east and large herds of sheep. By Lancaster, Oregon, only an hour or so out of Eugene, I have to stop at Starbucks to work on a deal/conference call that takes longer than expected. Now I have to race. The weather is much clearer today. I was disappointed not to see Mt. Hood yesterday. Passing through Portland today and turning east, I get a great view of the mountain from multiple angles. I also get to see Multnomah Falls in daylight. Further down the Columbia River Gorge, the trees start to disappear from the scenery. The view is replaced with unusual, massive, multi-story-building-size rock formations. What isn’t rock is covered in a short grass-like tundra. Some of it reminds me of views I saw in Tibet.
Multnomah Falls, Oregon
Not long after crossing the border into Washington state, I come over a rise and am greeted with a jaw-dropping view of Mt. Rainier. A farm valley is between us with the occasional barn. I’m crushed that I am so late that I can’t even stop to take a picture. This photo and the photo of Mt. Hood are both caught on the fly while driving down the interstate.
The drive across Washington continues to be amazing. About forty-five minutes of the trip is across the Yakama Nation. There is so much variety in the scenery - Snow is on both sides of me in the higher elevations, streams with tall pines in other parts, and long views of desert in others.
I’ve loved totem poles of the Northwest Indian tribes ever since I was a kid. I’ve always had the dream of owning a real one. Passing through Toppenish, WA, which is within the Yakama Indian Reservation, I pass a small house with about twenty-five totem poles of various sizes and designs in the front yard. I can’t believe it. I don’t even have time to stop and inquire! I’m still going to be late as it is. I will definitely be doing some research into this later.
I finally arrive in Wenatchee, sadly quite late. Fortunately, it is a great show, well attended, in a good venue. After the show, Boone and I grab a midnight breakfast at Shari’s. Shari’s is a definite stop the next time I see one. I find a hotel and finally make it to bed at 2:00 a.m.
Today’s drive along the Columbia River Gorge and across southeastern Washington State easily is one of the top ten drives I’ve ever made. I must have involuntarily said “Whoa!” twenty-five times as a new unexpected site suddenly appeared before me. This is a part of the country I hope to come back to very soon.
I’m hoping to get something good and not standard fare for breakfast on the way out of town. Google Maps points me toward the Beanery. It’s in Farmers’ Union Market, which appears to be an old farmer’s market or co-op. I have a green chile and cheddar quiche that is outstanding. The tea here is good as well.
The Beanery in Farmer's Union Market
It’s time to start the seven hour drive to Wenatchee, Washington. The area north of Eugene reminds me a bit of Ireland, with mountains to the east and large herds of sheep. By Lancaster, Oregon, only an hour or so out of Eugene, I have to stop at Starbucks to work on a deal/conference call that takes longer than expected. Now I have to race. The weather is much clearer today. I was disappointed not to see Mt. Hood yesterday. Passing through Portland today and turning east, I get a great view of the mountain from multiple angles. I also get to see Multnomah Falls in daylight. Further down the Columbia River Gorge, the trees start to disappear from the scenery. The view is replaced with unusual, massive, multi-story-building-size rock formations. What isn’t rock is covered in a short grass-like tundra. Some of it reminds me of views I saw in Tibet.
Mt. Hood, Oregon
Multnomah Falls, Oregon
Not long after crossing the border into Washington state, I come over a rise and am greeted with a jaw-dropping view of Mt. Rainier. A farm valley is between us with the occasional barn. I’m crushed that I am so late that I can’t even stop to take a picture. This photo and the photo of Mt. Hood are both caught on the fly while driving down the interstate.
Mt. Ranier
The drive across Washington continues to be amazing. About forty-five minutes of the trip is across the Yakama Nation. There is so much variety in the scenery - Snow is on both sides of me in the higher elevations, streams with tall pines in other parts, and long views of desert in others.
I’ve loved totem poles of the Northwest Indian tribes ever since I was a kid. I’ve always had the dream of owning a real one. Passing through Toppenish, WA, which is within the Yakama Indian Reservation, I pass a small house with about twenty-five totem poles of various sizes and designs in the front yard. I can’t believe it. I don’t even have time to stop and inquire! I’m still going to be late as it is. I will definitely be doing some research into this later.
I finally arrive in Wenatchee, sadly quite late. Fortunately, it is a great show, well attended, in a good venue. After the show, Boone and I grab a midnight breakfast at Shari’s. Shari’s is a definite stop the next time I see one. I find a hotel and finally make it to bed at 2:00 a.m.
Today’s drive along the Columbia River Gorge and across southeastern Washington State easily is one of the top ten drives I’ve ever made. I must have involuntarily said “Whoa!” twenty-five times as a new unexpected site suddenly appeared before me. This is a part of the country I hope to come back to very soon.
Columbia River Gorge/Eugene, Oregon
Four hours of work later, I grab a shower in the all-glass, in-room shower, get dressed, and check out.
I stop by the Black Rooster on the way to the car for a sandwich. It is a two-inch high meal of fresh goodness. Good stuff. I pass Powell's Books on the way to the car, another Portland landmark. It’s a bookstore a full block long.
Multnomah Falls above, Powell's Books below
Columbia River GorgeAt my crossroads stop in Hood River, I seek the advice of a gentleman at a fly fishing shop. Can I go south from here across Mt. Hood to Eugene? The verdict: Probably not the best idea with the snow they’ve had. There’s no other choice but to go back west to Portland and take the interstate. I stop by the coffee shop Ground for a tea and a made-in-Hood River Blissful Brownie. Wow. Super sweet and dense, but very good.
Hood River above, Ground coffee shop in Hood River below
It’s a beautiful drive to Eugene, about three hours from Hood River, mostly down I-5. Tonight’s show is at the McDonald Theater. It’s apparently an early 1900’s movie house converted to a theater. A black and white photo in the lobby shows the big promotion of a Charlie Chaplin movie that played here. Some of the guys and I grab a quick but excellent dinner at Burrito Boy on the same block of the theater. Later that night after the show, a follow-up dinner at another Burrito Boy puts the cap on the night.
Portland, Oregon
3.24.09 - It’s 4:00 a.m. It’s time to get up, shower and head for the airport. I have a flight to Dallas at 6:00 a.m. connecting to a flight to Portland, Oregon. Portland is the first stop of a week-long Great Northwest/California adventure.
I’m excited to see Portland. The only times I have been to Portland have consisted of waking up on a tour bus already at the venue, playing a show, and pulling out in the middle of the night. I’ve heard it’s a great city, and I’m excited to explore it.
On the Portland flight, we are crossing over Colorado. Snow covered peaks start to rise out of the clouds. They start with small tips just barely poking out through the puffy, gray mass. Then, the highest peaks appear, rising dramatically high above the clouds. We transition back to the small peaks for a while, then back to only seeing gray clouds.
I look out the window as we approach Portland. Like over Colorado, it is mostly clouds below. Then, in an awesome moment, Mt. Hood almost all in white, rises to nearly eye level with us, snow blowing off the top peak at a high speed, like steam when you blow on a hot cup of tea. The mountain dwarfs everything around it. Soon we’re back to just the clouds again.
The first stop after getting the rental car is to find some wifi and take care of some business. A random look at Google maps brings me to Bipartisan Coffee. When I walk up to the counter, my curiosity is aroused by the wheat-free, sugar-free, vegan apple pie behind the glass counter. I order the pie with a cup Quimen tea, a black tea, with some steamed non-fat milk. Both are delicious.
Coffee shops are such great people watching places. The people are in interesting contrast to the vintage political campaign posters throughout the shop.
My next stop is the Portland Art Museum. The museum has a great reputation that turns out to be well deserved. There is a nice collection of French Impressionists, truly engaging Modern Art, some notable photographs, and a beautiful collection of Northwest Indian art.
As I turn a corner, I immediately recognize the Franz Kline painting at the end of this hall. I didn’t know it was here. I recognize it from a well known Annie Leibovitz photograph of Steve Martin standing in front of it, painted to match. Next to the painting is an original copy of the photograph signed by Leibovitz and Martin.
The sculpture garden at the museum:
It’s been a great couple of hours. I check my tourist map for something else to see while it is still light. I find the Pittock Mansion. The house is closed, but the grounds are open. The beautiful French chateau influenced home was built Henry Pittock, founder of The Oregonian newspaper. Henry and his wife Georgiana were original Oregon Trail pioneers. Henry started The Oregonian in 1860 and became wealthy from it and many other business interests.
Entering from the drive:
The back, which looks over the valley across nearly all of Portland:
Still some daylight left! I head to Chinatown and view a bit of the Chinese Gardens before heading to check in to the Ace Hotel.
I found the Ace online in an effort to find something a little different. Different it is, and in a good way. The building is old with the old charm remaining, but with the added twist of modern touches and the hipster crowd staying here. There is a photo booth and bicycles for rent in the lobby. A door opens on one side of the lobby to Clyde Common restaurant, with requisite dance music coming through the opening. On the other side of the lobby, a door opens to Stumptown Coffee Roasters. Stumptown won my respect right away because they serve PG Tips tea. All of the staff I met at the hotel were very nice and helpful.
Each guest room is custom painted by different area artists. The rooms have a very European feel, kind of like an upscale hostel. As you can see in the photo, the all glass shower is in the room. No shyness allowed here if you’re rooming with someone, I guess.
For dinner, I want to try some regional seafood. I can see Jake’s Famous Crawfish Restaurant from my hotel. It was recommended by a staff member at the art museum. Jake’s, founded in 1892, is one of the oldest restaurants in Portland. In the 1970’s, two gentlemen named McCormick and Schmick bought it and soon launched their now famous chain.
I’m immediately suspicious about the quality when I look at the menu. It shows which fish are wild caught, but many things are prepared with sauces or fried, a hint that perhaps the fish isn’t that fresh and needs a little distraction. I tell my waiter that I just want a great piece of fresh fish prepared as simply as possible. I want the flavor to be all about the fish. He tells me that halibut season began about three days ago and that tonight is their first night to offer selections from the first catches.
The halibut is perhaps one of the best pieces of fish I have ever had. Grilled lightly over a flame, it is perfect. Even the asparagus and julienne carrots and the sourdough bread are especially good. A slice of chocolate truffle cake, though not particularly exceptional, is a nice finish.
A quick stop by Georgia’s market across the street for some Advil and a Diet Coke, and I’m back to the hotel for some sleep.
The Ace is in an area of town with late 1800’s-early 1900’s buildings. The view from my street-facing room is good, but I should’ve gotten a room facing the back. There is a bar across the street with an open front. It’s not terrible, but a bit loud fairly late into this Friday night.
I’m excited to see Portland. The only times I have been to Portland have consisted of waking up on a tour bus already at the venue, playing a show, and pulling out in the middle of the night. I’ve heard it’s a great city, and I’m excited to explore it.
On the Portland flight, we are crossing over Colorado. Snow covered peaks start to rise out of the clouds. They start with small tips just barely poking out through the puffy, gray mass. Then, the highest peaks appear, rising dramatically high above the clouds. We transition back to the small peaks for a while, then back to only seeing gray clouds.
I look out the window as we approach Portland. Like over Colorado, it is mostly clouds below. Then, in an awesome moment, Mt. Hood almost all in white, rises to nearly eye level with us, snow blowing off the top peak at a high speed, like steam when you blow on a hot cup of tea. The mountain dwarfs everything around it. Soon we’re back to just the clouds again.
The first stop after getting the rental car is to find some wifi and take care of some business. A random look at Google maps brings me to Bipartisan Coffee. When I walk up to the counter, my curiosity is aroused by the wheat-free, sugar-free, vegan apple pie behind the glass counter. I order the pie with a cup Quimen tea, a black tea, with some steamed non-fat milk. Both are delicious.
Coffee shops are such great people watching places. The people are in interesting contrast to the vintage political campaign posters throughout the shop.
My next stop is the Portland Art Museum. The museum has a great reputation that turns out to be well deserved. There is a nice collection of French Impressionists, truly engaging Modern Art, some notable photographs, and a beautiful collection of Northwest Indian art.
As I turn a corner, I immediately recognize the Franz Kline painting at the end of this hall. I didn’t know it was here. I recognize it from a well known Annie Leibovitz photograph of Steve Martin standing in front of it, painted to match. Next to the painting is an original copy of the photograph signed by Leibovitz and Martin.
The sculpture garden at the museum:
It’s been a great couple of hours. I check my tourist map for something else to see while it is still light. I find the Pittock Mansion. The house is closed, but the grounds are open. The beautiful French chateau influenced home was built Henry Pittock, founder of The Oregonian newspaper. Henry and his wife Georgiana were original Oregon Trail pioneers. Henry started The Oregonian in 1860 and became wealthy from it and many other business interests.
Entering from the drive:
The back, which looks over the valley across nearly all of Portland:
Still some daylight left! I head to Chinatown and view a bit of the Chinese Gardens before heading to check in to the Ace Hotel.
I found the Ace online in an effort to find something a little different. Different it is, and in a good way. The building is old with the old charm remaining, but with the added twist of modern touches and the hipster crowd staying here. There is a photo booth and bicycles for rent in the lobby. A door opens on one side of the lobby to Clyde Common restaurant, with requisite dance music coming through the opening. On the other side of the lobby, a door opens to Stumptown Coffee Roasters. Stumptown won my respect right away because they serve PG Tips tea. All of the staff I met at the hotel were very nice and helpful.
Each guest room is custom painted by different area artists. The rooms have a very European feel, kind of like an upscale hostel. As you can see in the photo, the all glass shower is in the room. No shyness allowed here if you’re rooming with someone, I guess.
A framed cross-stitch that hangs in the old building's elevator, accurately describing the elevator's speed:
For dinner, I want to try some regional seafood. I can see Jake’s Famous Crawfish Restaurant from my hotel. It was recommended by a staff member at the art museum. Jake’s, founded in 1892, is one of the oldest restaurants in Portland. In the 1970’s, two gentlemen named McCormick and Schmick bought it and soon launched their now famous chain.
I’m immediately suspicious about the quality when I look at the menu. It shows which fish are wild caught, but many things are prepared with sauces or fried, a hint that perhaps the fish isn’t that fresh and needs a little distraction. I tell my waiter that I just want a great piece of fresh fish prepared as simply as possible. I want the flavor to be all about the fish. He tells me that halibut season began about three days ago and that tonight is their first night to offer selections from the first catches.
The halibut is perhaps one of the best pieces of fish I have ever had. Grilled lightly over a flame, it is perfect. Even the asparagus and julienne carrots and the sourdough bread are especially good. A slice of chocolate truffle cake, though not particularly exceptional, is a nice finish.
A quick stop by Georgia’s market across the street for some Advil and a Diet Coke, and I’m back to the hotel for some sleep.
The Ace is in an area of town with late 1800’s-early 1900’s buildings. The view from my street-facing room is good, but I should’ve gotten a room facing the back. There is a bar across the street with an open front. It’s not terrible, but a bit loud fairly late into this Friday night.
Washington, D.C./Williamsport, Pennysylvania
2.21.09 - On the way towards my next destination, Williamsport, Pennsylvania, I stop in D.C. to see all of the National Gallery of Art. My mouth drops open every few minutes as I come face to face with great, known-around-the-world works of art - works by Rodin, Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Degas, Manet, Homer, and so many more. Gilbert Stuart’s paintings of our early presidents he made during their presidencies are here – Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison. It’s an inspiring and invigorating visit.
The National Gallery of Art:
Girls admiring Bierstadt:
Beginning in 1832, the French artist Honore' Daumier made thirty-six caricatures of members of the French Parliment and other government officials as models for a satire journal at the risk of fines and imprisonment. The National Gallery of Art owns one of the only existing complete sets of all the busts.
The National Gallery of Art:
Girls admiring Bierstadt:
Beginning in 1832, the French artist Honore' Daumier made thirty-six caricatures of members of the French Parliment and other government officials as models for a satire journal at the risk of fines and imprisonment. The National Gallery of Art owns one of the only existing complete sets of all the busts.
The central entry of the National Gallery of Art:
I have possibly just enough time to visit the National Holocaust Memorial. I’m in the middle of reading When They Came to Take My Father, accounts by Holocaust survivors. It’s inspired me to want to see this museum. Unfortunately, I cannot find parking anywhere close. It will have to be for another time. I still have four hours to drive to make it to tonight’s show in Williamsport, PA. One more stop at Five Guys and I’m on my way.
The four hour drive to Pennsylvania is a pretty one. It is rural hillsides and scenic drives in a winter scene. I pass the York barbell factory in York, PA. Anyone who has ever spent time in a gym lifting weights has probably come across York barbells. The statue of a weightlifter on their sign in the clean position of a clean and jerk lift is classic American road side advertising art.
Williamsport looks like a nice town in the mountains. I wish I could have seen it in the daylight. I understand the Little League World Series takes place here. Tonight’s venue is another beautiful, revived movie theater. It’s in an older section of downtown with some nice early 1900’s or earlier buildings.
After the show, I make a quick stop on the way out of town at Old School Pizza for a slice. Great pizza. It was just opened by three lifelong friends, all about twenty-eight years old. I wish them much success.
It’s about 9:00 p.m. and time to start the three hour drive back to Baltimore. The first hour or so goes well, but then my stomach starts to feel a little funny. I pull over at an exit north of York. All of a sudden, I am in the middle of some big time sickness. I’m not sure I can make the drive to Baltimore. I ultimately do, but by then my fever is 102.
The night is rough. I wake the next morning at 5:00 a.m. for my flight and spend several minutes determining whether I can even make it to the airport. I do and ultimately make it home to spend the next three days in bed. It’s a rough finish, but what an otherwise wonderful trip!
The four hour drive to Pennsylvania is a pretty one. It is rural hillsides and scenic drives in a winter scene. I pass the York barbell factory in York, PA. Anyone who has ever spent time in a gym lifting weights has probably come across York barbells. The statue of a weightlifter on their sign in the clean position of a clean and jerk lift is classic American road side advertising art.
Williamsport looks like a nice town in the mountains. I wish I could have seen it in the daylight. I understand the Little League World Series takes place here. Tonight’s venue is another beautiful, revived movie theater. It’s in an older section of downtown with some nice early 1900’s or earlier buildings.
After the show, I make a quick stop on the way out of town at Old School Pizza for a slice. Great pizza. It was just opened by three lifelong friends, all about twenty-eight years old. I wish them much success.
It’s about 9:00 p.m. and time to start the three hour drive back to Baltimore. The first hour or so goes well, but then my stomach starts to feel a little funny. I pull over at an exit north of York. All of a sudden, I am in the middle of some big time sickness. I’m not sure I can make the drive to Baltimore. I ultimately do, but by then my fever is 102.
The night is rough. I wake the next morning at 5:00 a.m. for my flight and spend several minutes determining whether I can even make it to the airport. I do and ultimately make it home to spend the next three days in bed. It’s a rough finish, but what an otherwise wonderful trip!
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