I’m excited to see Portland. The only times I have been to Portland have consisted of waking up on a tour bus already at the venue, playing a show, and pulling out in the middle of the night. I’ve heard it’s a great city, and I’m excited to explore it.
On the Portland flight, we are crossing over Colorado. Snow covered peaks start to rise out of the clouds. They start with small tips just barely poking out through the puffy, gray mass. Then, the highest peaks appear, rising dramatically high above the clouds. We transition back to the small peaks for a while, then back to only seeing gray clouds.
I look out the window as we approach Portland. Like over Colorado, it is mostly clouds below. Then, in an awesome moment, Mt. Hood almost all in white, rises to nearly eye level with us, snow blowing off the top peak at a high speed, like steam when you blow on a hot cup of tea. The mountain dwarfs everything around it. Soon we’re back to just the clouds again.
The first stop after getting the rental car is to find some wifi and take care of some business. A random look at Google maps brings me to Bipartisan Coffee. When I walk up to the counter, my curiosity is aroused by the wheat-free, sugar-free, vegan apple pie behind the glass counter. I order the pie with a cup Quimen tea, a black tea, with some steamed non-fat milk. Both are delicious.
Coffee shops are such great people watching places. The people are in interesting contrast to the vintage political campaign posters throughout the shop.
My next stop is the Portland Art Museum. The museum has a great reputation that turns out to be well deserved. There is a nice collection of French Impressionists, truly engaging Modern Art, some notable photographs, and a beautiful collection of Northwest Indian art.
As I turn a corner, I immediately recognize the Franz Kline painting at the end of this hall. I didn’t know it was here. I recognize it from a well known Annie Leibovitz photograph of Steve Martin standing in front of it, painted to match. Next to the painting is an original copy of the photograph signed by Leibovitz and Martin.
The sculpture garden at the museum:
It’s been a great couple of hours. I check my tourist map for something else to see while it is still light. I find the Pittock Mansion. The house is closed, but the grounds are open. The beautiful French chateau influenced home was built Henry Pittock, founder of The Oregonian newspaper. Henry and his wife Georgiana were original Oregon Trail pioneers. Henry started The Oregonian in 1860 and became wealthy from it and many other business interests.
Entering from the drive:
The back, which looks over the valley across nearly all of Portland:
Still some daylight left! I head to Chinatown and view a bit of the Chinese Gardens before heading to check in to the Ace Hotel.
I found the Ace online in an effort to find something a little different. Different it is, and in a good way. The building is old with the old charm remaining, but with the added twist of modern touches and the hipster crowd staying here. There is a photo booth and bicycles for rent in the lobby. A door opens on one side of the lobby to Clyde Common restaurant, with requisite dance music coming through the opening. On the other side of the lobby, a door opens to Stumptown Coffee Roasters. Stumptown won my respect right away because they serve PG Tips tea. All of the staff I met at the hotel were very nice and helpful.
Each guest room is custom painted by different area artists. The rooms have a very European feel, kind of like an upscale hostel. As you can see in the photo, the all glass shower is in the room. No shyness allowed here if you’re rooming with someone, I guess.
A framed cross-stitch that hangs in the old building's elevator, accurately describing the elevator's speed:
For dinner, I want to try some regional seafood. I can see Jake’s Famous Crawfish Restaurant from my hotel. It was recommended by a staff member at the art museum. Jake’s, founded in 1892, is one of the oldest restaurants in Portland. In the 1970’s, two gentlemen named McCormick and Schmick bought it and soon launched their now famous chain.
I’m immediately suspicious about the quality when I look at the menu. It shows which fish are wild caught, but many things are prepared with sauces or fried, a hint that perhaps the fish isn’t that fresh and needs a little distraction. I tell my waiter that I just want a great piece of fresh fish prepared as simply as possible. I want the flavor to be all about the fish. He tells me that halibut season began about three days ago and that tonight is their first night to offer selections from the first catches.
The halibut is perhaps one of the best pieces of fish I have ever had. Grilled lightly over a flame, it is perfect. Even the asparagus and julienne carrots and the sourdough bread are especially good. A slice of chocolate truffle cake, though not particularly exceptional, is a nice finish.
A quick stop by Georgia’s market across the street for some Advil and a Diet Coke, and I’m back to the hotel for some sleep.
The Ace is in an area of town with late 1800’s-early 1900’s buildings. The view from my street-facing room is good, but I should’ve gotten a room facing the back. There is a bar across the street with an open front. It’s not terrible, but a bit loud fairly late into this Friday night.
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