Wednesday, May 27, 2009

England: Bath, Thornbury Castle



5.26.09 - The sun is shining on this cool morning here in Suite 2 at the Cranleigh House in Bath, England. This bed and breakfast is a treat. It’s quiet with colorful gardens and a very sweet staff. Colin and Denise Potter, the owners, have created a very welcoming atmosphere. The room is very nice with period furnishings and everything we need. Breakfast in the sunny dining room is perfect. There are some new toppings for toast that we haven’t seen before. In addition to strawberry with champagne and pineapple preserves, there is whisky marmalade with orange, quince, lemon cheese, and lime curd.

The entry way:




The dining room:


Our room:



From our window:


From the back:

We pack up the car, head for a car park in Bath, park, and get out to see the town. Bath is an ancient city with evidence still in place of when the Romans controlled it around 60 A.D. The mineral bath is the most famous Roman landmark. The extent of Georgian architecture that was started in the 1720’s combined with it’s setting in the southern portion of the Cotswolds gives us a feeling of stepping back in time.

One of the first things we see is the Jane Austen Centre. Author Jane Austen lived in Bath for part of her life and used it as the setting for two of her books. Just up the street from the center, at 25 Gay Street, we see the house where Jane lived.


Jane Austen's home:


From Jane’s house, we walk north to the Circus, a large circle of Georgian homes all facing a circular park. Just to the east of those homes, we view the Assembly Rooms. Jane Austen, people of her day, and others since, would gather here for public balls and teas.

The Circus:




One of the Assembly Rooms:




We walk south, stopping through an antiques shop, toward the Roman bath. Upscale shopping everywhere is a sign of modern Bath. We stop for a tasty lunch at a vegetarian restaurant on a second floor overlooking the street, then stop in some shops on our walk. The most unusual would have to be the daytime cafĂ© in a large church. That’s a new one for us.



The streets of Bath:


At the market:


We next tour through Bath Abbey. A church first began on this site in 757. Then, through wars and conflicts, eventually the current structure was founded in 1499 and completed in 1611. The fan design in the ceilings is quite intricate and beautiful.






We walk by the Roman baths, but don’t feel the need to tour them. On our way to the car, we stop in a kitchen store and pick up some hardware – spoons of various types we’ve seen here that we would like for our kitchen. They’ll add some good solid weight to our luggage!

Bath old:

And Bath new:


Our last stop is by the Royal Crescent, a huge crescent of Georgian homes built between 1767 and 1774. It is said to be one of the greatest examples of Georgian architecture in the United Kingdom. It overlooks Royal Victoria Park. In an amazing bit of planning when you consider the scale of such a thing at that time, the Royal Crescent combined with the nearby circus, when viewed from the air, creates the symbol of the sun and the moon. The Circus, along with Gay Street and Queens Square forms a key shape, which may have been planned as a Masonic symbol.




Back at the car, we program the GPS to find our next destination, Thornbury Castle in Thornbury, England. We are particularly excited, especially Teresa, to visit this castle that was built by one of her ancestors, Edward Stafford, beginning in 1510.

The drive goes well. We enter the castle grounds and are glad to see that it exceeds all of our expectations. The staff is gracious and professional. The Howard Suite, our room for the stay, is beyond expectation. The pictures we had seen did not do it justice. Teresa made the reservation for our stay at Thornbury Castle. When they saw her name was the family name here, they upgraded us to this suite. We are thankful! Not long after we enter our room, a private jet helicopter lands on the front lawn outside of our room. It’s one of the corporate people who own the hotel. Near our rooms are the gardens, the oldest Tudor gardens in England.

Entering the castle:



From the back:



The Howard Suite:







Walking between the old fortified walls:





We decide to eat dinner in town. One of the staff recommends the Anchor pub. We set off to look for it, but don’t come across it. I ask a local man in a grocery store parking lot for directions. After he tells me, I ask to confirm that the Anchor is on Church Road. He misunderstands me, get wide-eyed and taken aback, like I am looking for the wrong thing, and says quietly and intensely in a thick accent, “It’s not a church, it’s a pub!” (pub sounding like poob).

After making a broad circle around Thornbury, we finally find the Anchor. The food is good. Teresa orders Ox Cheek, which we try for the first time. Very good. I have the duck.



It’s been a good, full day in Bath and Thornbury. We settle in for the night and look forward to tomorrow.

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